My Trip to Turkey; Food for My Soul

The Historic Clock Tower in central Izmir

The celebration of Ladino Day, Dia de Ladino (DIdL) is a big deal in Istanbul. In February of every year since 2013, they put on a day-long program that includes song, theater, story-telling, food (that is, a Sephardic banquet) and yes, a speech or two, all of it in Ladino. In 2021 and 2022, because of the  Pandemic, they did it all, minus the food of course, via Zoom, but in 2023 they were determined to go back to their famous in-person event, and set it for Sunday, the 26th of February.  By early January they had started rehearsals, invited me to be the guest speaker, and sent me a ticket to make the trip from my home in Dallas. It was a big honor for me to be invited, and I excitedly awaited the occasion, and the chance to travel once again back to my country of birth and to see all my friends and relatives there. I let everyone know in Istanbul and Izmir that I was coming, and began to take notes for my speech.

And then, on February 6, 2023, disaster struck southeastern Turkiye. The devastating 7.8 magnitude earthquake killed tens of thousands of people and destroyed scores of communities, putting the entire country in mourning. Thus the team, headed by the Sephardic Center of Istanbul, with director Karen Gerson Sarhon and President Silvyo Ovadya, decided to postpone their DidL – at first to April, and a few days later, to November 5th.

Until November “el Dio es grande”, anything could happen, I thought. So I decided to go to Turkey as originally planned, especially wanting to be there at this difficult time. I already had the ticket for February 24th to March 6. I let Silvyo know that I would use the ticket now, promising to come back in November, if all goes well, si kere el Dio.

My trip was a dream come true. Every day, and every episode of my stay in both Istanbul and Izmir was a highlight, but I can only mention some of these here, and I start with the first, which was immediately after Karen and her husband Yusuf Sarhon picked me up from the airport in Istanbul. We drove to the home of Silvyo and Lika Ovadia, where we had an amazing Sephardic Shabbat dinner and home hospitality.

On the afternoon of Tuesday Feb, 28 we had a get-together with old and new friends at the Şalom (Shalom) offices. Karen had arranged this upon the requests of people who had heard that I was coming to Turkey in spite of the postponement of  DIdL. About thirty people arrived, each bearing a platter of food, into the room where a long table had been set up with chairs. I knew some of the people only via the Internet, but we all embraced each other in loving friendship.  The table was overladen with delicious Sephardic home-made delicacies. Karen and I said some words of greeting, everyone took turns telling a little about themselves, often with a funny anecdote, everyone speaking only in Ladino. We took plenty of pictures and selfies as mementos of this happy gathering.  And, what an honor it was for me to read the report later, in the front page of El Amaneser, issue of 8 March, 2023!

Friends and family also got together for me in Izmir. That was arranged by Erol Amado, a third cousin of mine who happens to be the Vice President of the Izmir Jewish community. That gathering took place at the new building in Alsancak which houses  the newest synagogue, as well as offices, Sunday School rooms,  meeting spaces and a social hall. Fifty people came to that one, about half of them my relatives! Everyone was speaking Turkish, but after Sara Enriquez, President of “the Senior Club” introduced me, I asked, in Turkish,  if they wanted me to talk to them in Ladino or Turkish.  I heard Ladino, so that is what I spoke, telling them, mainly, why it is  important to keep this language, and to teach it to younger generations. After partaking in refreshments,  socializing and much photography, I was given a thorough tour of the new building. That same day I also toured the restored old synagogues in the Juderia (Jewish area) with Nesim Benjoya, accompanied by my cousin Besim Amado and his colleague Jak Arditi, both of whom are professional guides.  Besim and Jak then took me on a nostalgic tour of the streets in the area, especially where my mother used to go to buy fish from the Jewish vendors! On another day, Besim took me to my old neighborhood, the Asansor area, and Bet Israel synagogue, where Bernard and I were married one day in history (1963), then by my elementary school, and more. This was the only “sight-seeing” I did during my entire trip, and that is how I wanted it.

In Izmir I also met with two interesting Turkish (not Jewish) people with whom I had been in contact over the years.   One was the journalist Yaşar Aksoy who had interviewed me during my visit back in 1989 and published it with color pictures in the daily newspaper of Izmir. He met me and interviewed me again, and this time published it in the Jewish Şalom newspaper of Istanbul. Mr. Aksoy presented me with a signed copy of his latest book on the great fire of Izmir in 1922. The other person was the historian Siren Bora, a specialist on the Jews of Izmir and the Aegean region, with her latest book on Rav Palachi and his Era, which she also signed and gave me as a gift.

Also, my high school classmates got together for me, as they always do when I come to Izmir, and treated me to a fresh fish lunch at a seaside restaurant.

In both Istanbul and Izmir, I was busy every single day with meetings, visits, and meals with friends and/or relatives, too many to allow me to mention their names here.  My presence had no role in alleviating the suffering of the earthquake victims. But I believe it had a positive if temporary effect on the personal state of mind of the people who took time to be with me.  I know they made a great positive difference in my own state of mind. This trip home was, as my late friend Louis N. Levy used to say, food for my soul. If I get to go again in November, I know the food for my soul and for my body will be just as good, maybe even better.